I've not seen a Timeless post, but I'd be willing to bet that the 1 1/4" rod is substantially more of a post. Personally, I don't feel that the drilling is very difficult or terribly time consuming, and prefer to drill them in the field as needed on installation. Fairly comparable pricewise, especially if you want to have the rods pre-drilled. their lightest) is $7.75+shipping from Timeless, a 6' x 1 1/4" rod is $6.30+shipping from Powerflex. You can buy them predrilled if you want too, usually they charge. That way, even if I take posts out, they will still work no matter where I need to use one. I've been installing only 3 wire and 1 wire fences (don't have sheep or goats), so when I drill for 1 wire fence, I'm putting in only a single hole, where the middle wire would be on a 3 wire fence. Use only 1 1/4" x 6' for line posts, even on 1 wire electric (anything much lighter and it won't support the weight and tension of a polywire reel for daily breaks anyway). All end posts are 4 1/2" x 8' long fiberglass, including the cross bar for H brace. pull in other wires and "pretension slightly". that HT wire is supposed to be able to stretch the whole length of the fence. soft galvanized, stick through the post underneath the wire, bend over the top of the wire loosely and twist tie it 2 rounds behind the post. just cut a whole soup can full (easy to carry with you down the line) of 7-8" long pieces of 14 ga. Typically I drill all the posts, then come back with my wire ties and hang the wires. Before using a carbide drill though, I could burn up bits in no time, AND wear out the man trying to make the durn thing work. I use a hammer drill, seems to speed it up a little. I've drilled several thousand holes with the same bit, still working great. Then just go down the line with a cordless drill and a couple of fully charged batteries in your pocket, with a 3/16" carbide tipped cement bit. Welded a short piece of flat over the top end so I can hang it on the posts after driving them ALL in, the length of the run. I drilled holes in an old steel U post for a story board. Never know where you might need to use them, or what the wire spacing might be. I drill them as I use them, don't want any more holes in them than necessary (these posts are STRONG, but any hole will weaken it a bit). They would be able to shatter right through that, especially if you've got a "vibrator type" of power driver, but I'm pretty sure that these wouldn't.Ĭlick to expand.You can buy them predrilled if you want too, usually they charge. If you're in solid shelf rock, like shale, I'd guess you'd be better off with steel though. They're very tough, don't shatter, but will mushroom the bottom end a bit I expect if you were right on top of one. The 1 1/4" solid rod I use for line posts do pretty well when I hit a rock, generally will slide off to one side or another without damage. so not much to be concerned about when putting posts in. U of MN did a boring on my farm a couple years ago. If I hit one that's pretty solid, I stop and move the post a foot or so to find a more rock free spot. I do drive them all in, (1 1/4's with a regular T post driver by hand, end posts with a Shaver hydraulic post pounder) but I've not got a solid rock base here, just plenty of granite rocks buried in the dirt, left by the glacier they tell me. so steel again there would be better if you're wanting to drive them in. they can shatter the end against the rock. The ones I use for H braced post sets would be more difficult in/on a fairly solid rock. They would be able to shatter right through that, especially if you've got a "vibrator type" of power driver, but I'm pretty sure that these wouldn't. Click to expand.The 1 1/4" solid rod I use for line posts do pretty well when I hit a rock, generally will slide off to one side or another without damage.
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